Monday May 30 Palais de Reis to Padron

Monday May 30 Palais de Reis to Padron
It's 5:00 and I think the sky is looking less threatening. To no avail, I hàd hoped for a day without ŕain gear. A heavy downpour at 9:00, another at 11:00 and sprinkles in the afternoon.

Most of the grapes here are in arbors; this was the only vineyard where they are grown as in Napa.

I imagined that I was walking with Markus, a puzzled look as he went ahead. Then a gleeful shout, "Hanna i found it. Come this way." as he spotted the marker around a corner, just out of sight.
The way parallels major roadways into Santiago, but for the most part it weaves from vineyard to vineyard, and wooded path to wooded path.

.

Pilgrims here do not leave their mark. The cruciferous are devoid of flowers am mementos.  This the only evidence of our passage.

I am a little depressed. Is it because there is only one more day to walk into Santiago? Is it that the promised nice weather has not materialized? Or is it because they have put me into a hotal 3/4 of a mile out of town without even a cafe in the neighborhood?

The cathedral is devoted to St. James. The large stone behind the altar has historically been thought to be the one to which his boat was moored when he came ashore to teach the gospel. Recently this has been questionned, but every account has itseen as a religious object since Roman times.

A walk back into town for a sit down in a cafe and now back to write this and wait for Gene to Skype.

Sunday May 29 Pontevedra to Palais de Reis

Sunday May 29 Pontevedra to Palais de Reis
The front has passed,  but that doesn't mean that it has stopped raining.

The walk today was primarily spent looking at the ever threatening sky, basking in the brief moments of sun and skirting puddles.

I stayed true to my plan to follow every arrow and camino shell direction.

At one point feeling I must be in a Jurassic park.

At other times, taking a moment to smell the flowers.

(Grr back to asking it to publish and instead reverting to a previous draft.)

Passing greenhouses, both large and small

Then eating a delicious, freshly made just for me, tortilla patata together with a 2015 vinho (?) tinto.

Others ate chorizo inferno.  I hope to find it on the lunch menu tomorrow.

Arriving in Palais de Reis in time to see the Corpus Christi celebration.

Saturday May 28 Redondela to Pontevedra

Saturday May 28 Redondela to Pontevedra
I ate breakfast with the cyclists.

And went on my way with an admonishment: when you pass me I want a smile!
I passed 4 pilgrims. No hordes. Even though I am following every arrow from here on into Santiago.

2 passed me as I climbed and descended on these smooth, slippery rocks.

Kindly offering to take my photo

Just as the cloud burst open, like an awning breaking under the load. I heard in chorus, "Buon Camino."

It was the cycling group. The last swung back, asking me to confirm that each one had smiled.

(Can't get this out of center text mode. The selection arrow doesn't respond to my touch.)

I had forgotten how sweet smelling a candle is. In Portugal none are permitted inside a building.

The pulpo Galicia is mouthwatering good.
And Pontevedra is a beautiful city.

Friday May 27 Vigo to Redondela

Friday May 27 Vigo to Redondela
I left early this morning to avoid the predicted afternoon rain which, of course, never materialized. I am sitting looking at a beautiful view of water, small treed islands, small homesteads, village and town across the way, each alternately highlight by sun.

Again, I took the contrary path along the waterfront. I walked along the arc of the bay, the Cies Islands at the focus. The tumultuous Atlantic is behind; I am now following the bay and the fluvial plain of the Rio Redondela a tributary of the Rio Vigo. I have just passed San Simon, the setting for the beginning of Jules Verne's "Around the World in 80 Days."
There are many hundreds of porous rafts anchored in the delta. Apparently the fishing boats tie up to them. Do they dump their load? Do they clean fish there?

(This is attempt number 8 to get this blog out. I had three more paragraphs and 5 inserted photos just vaporize.)

A statue of Sr. Castro.  ( he looks almost as small as Grieg)

I wonder what she is spraying onto the grapes.

1pm and still no bread delivery

Redondela

I can hardly contain myself. 8 cyclists from South Africa, Durban area, have joined me. A gin and tonic; the first cocktail on this trip. I still stick to the pledge I made to myself as a teenager: never drink alone.
I joined them for dinher. Although I had placed my order with the chef when they placed theirs, dinner arrived and there was none for me. My first 4 choices were not available. Finally I asked for the larger prawns. My plate came with a cold, hard crab the size of a softshell. Ì could not scratch, suck or chew a thing. Shrimp from one neighbor, tortilla from another; padron peppers for me to share,. Lots of chatter and laughter. It was wonderful to have dinner companions.
This is the point where all the camino paths from Portugal converge. I could see planes flying low to land in Tui, the 100 km mark of the radius to Santiago. How many fellow walkers will I see tomorrow? There are a lot of cycling pilgrims staying at my hostel/hotel tonight.
(Attempt number 9 here. )

I have enjoyed walking alone.!

Thursday May 26 Baiona to Vigo.

Thursday May 26 Baiona to Vigo
Still no other walkers in sight.
An interesting day. Dead ends.

(This man's stride which I have followed for about a mile, is exactly twice the length of mine.)

 Beach walks impassable because of high tide.

The Cies Islands are visible.

Walking along a superhighway, needing to go over the guardrail to cross at intersections. Up the hill to Vigo alta then directed down to the waterfront back at Bouzas.

Walk along the commercial seafront bars (and their accompanying brothels ) and finally into my hotel outside of which were 3 women dressed in Burberry and Prada.

Vigo is a city with more than 300,000 denizens. Money comes from the extensive fisheries and from the international mercantile port. Money is displayed by elegant shops and perfumed women dressed Haute Còuture.

Unfortunately the most exciting parts of the day: highways and seedy waterfront were impossible to photograph.
Looking forward to an elegant, expensive evening dinner. The usual .60 cent espresso cost 1.40 with no offer of change from 1.50.

The sun never really shone, mostly overcast, but shorts and a T-top were okay.